When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.
“I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.
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